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Milan Fashion Week: Moschino's Material Girls, Prada's Layered Chic

Jeremy Scott and Miuccia Prada presented thought-provoking collections on Day 2 of Milan Fashion Week.

The personal is political, and so is the packaging. Moschino's Jeremy Scott and Miuccia Prada both seemed to be sending out strong messages at their Thursday shows on the second day of Milan Fashion Week.
Moschino

Don’t throw out that Amazon.com package just yet. Moschino’s Jeremy Scott sent out a boisterous collection he called “cardboard couture,” inspired by the simple brown box. The show opened with the triple threat of the now single-named new supers: Kendall, Gigi and Bella in looks involving packing tape, “Fragile” belts and a camel-colored pea coat stamped, “This side up.”

But he didn’t stop there, moving on to shimmering gowns made out of bubble wrap (try wearing that around a hot mic), collage looks of old Moschino magazine advertisements and plastic flotsam that could have come straight from the Pacific garbage gyre. Show notes reminded us that plastic has a half-life of forever: “Why should organza be any more permanent than trash-bag plastic?” he asked. “This collection acknowledges the overlooked physical consequences — the fallout.”
An intermission of sorts was offered when a model emerged from red velvet curtains singing to the Rigoletto opera; turns out she was wearing the curtains, too, in true Scarlett O’Hara fashion. “Would you like me to seduce you?” she asked as George Michael’s “Too Funky” came on.

For all the experimental materials — a trash can lid hat, a toilet paper roll bag — the silhouettes were still classic, from ladylike suits to va-va-voom cocktail dresses to a sweetheart prom dress. Scott even sent out Jenner in a power pantsuit with a short black bob that made her reminiscent of her famous mom.

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Kendall Jenner at Moschino Fall 2017

As Gigi closed the show, her heel broke on the runway, and a front row Fergie literally picked up the pieces. She took a selfie with the broken bits, all the while bouncing along to the music.
The designer came out for his final bow in a “Couture is an Attitude” slogan tee. Was Scott trying to challenge fashion fans to rethink their consumption, or simply solidifying his branding with a new fashion frenzy?
Trash couture is certainly something that's been done before by other designers, including John Galliano and this house's namesake, Franco Moschino, and indeed by Scott himself. But the conversation around sustainable fashion is rising. And as Scott's notes concluded, “We are what we wear.” Whatever the intent, it was just so damned fun.
Prada
The room was an Instagrammer's dream: dotting the seatscape at Prada's cavernous headquarters were beds with vinyl sheets and faux fur blankets and pillows, nightstands topped with Polaroids and stickers. Vintage-style movie posters lined the walls bearing the titles “Desert Rose,” “Velvet Knife” and “The Glass Cage.” But for all the set dressing, Miuccia’s woman had broken out of any easy characterization.
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